šāØ Vanilla & the NC500: Miles, Myths & Magic
- John Nickolls
- Oct 4
- 6 min read
September 21 ā October 3, 2025
š Day 1 ā Stafford ā Balintore
459.5 miles | Avg 29 mph | Top 81 mph
The adventure began before dawn, Stafford still heavy with sleep as Vanillaās diesel heartbeat rolled into the cool air. The M6 was a steel river of lorries and cars, headlights glaring, but the horizon whispered Scotland with every mile. By Dalwhinnie, the sky staged a miracle: a rainbow arched across the road like Scotlandās own neon welcome.
After almost 460 miles, Inverness rolled past, and the NC500 truly began. Evening light painted Balintore in gold, where the Mermaid of the North stared eternally out to sea. A pint at the Balintore Inn sealed the first chapter.



š¼ļø Photo: Vanilla parked under Dalwhinnieās rainbowš¼ļø Photo: Mermaid of the North sculpture against the wavesš¼ļø Photo: Balintore Inn pint, condensation running down the glass
š„ Day 2 ā Balintore ā Thurso
110 miles | Avg 19 mph | Top 68 mph
Morning light poured pink over the Moray Firth. With time on your side, the road unfolded into stops rich with heritage.
At Glenmorangie Distillery, copper stills glowed like suns, the air thick with the perfume of whisky in the making. Northward stood Dunrobin Castle, a fairy tale in stone, turrets cutting into a blue sky. By afternoon, the road pulled you to the edge of Britain at John oā Groats, where the famous signpost hummed with stickers and the Atlantic thundered just beyond.
Thurso welcomed you with the wind howling through the pop-top. A curry and a pint of Tennents brought warmth and balance.
š¼ļø Photo: Copper stills at Glenmorangie glowing goldenš¼ļø Photo: Drone wide shot of Dunrobin Castle and gardensš¼ļø Photo: John oā Groats signpost, stickers layered thick
š Day 3 ā Thurso ā Kyle of Tongue
58 miles | Avg 13 mph | Top 65 mph
The road curled west past Bettyhill Beach, dunes glowing gold, waves soft and white. Highland coos grazed roadside, camera-ready in their shaggy coats.
By evening, the Kyle of Tongue Causeway burned in copper sunset. Ben Loyal loomed above, wearing a crown of fire. Dinner at the Ben Loyal Hotel ā Highland chicken swimming in whisky sauce ā drew the day to a perfect close.
š¼ļø Photo: Drone view of Bettyhill Beach, dunes spilling into seaš¼ļø Photo: Close-up of Highland coo, tongue out mid-chewš¼ļø Photo: Sunset over Kyle of Tongue, water glowing like molten glass
š Day 4 ā Kyle of Tongue ā Durness
29 miles | Avg 14 mph | Top 68 mph
Loch Eriboll stretched pewter-dark and endless, its silence broken only by history. German U-boats once surrendered here, and the stillness felt heavy with memory.
But joy returned in turquoise at Ceannabeinne, where the zipline swung thrill-seekers out over crashing surf. Then Durness roared to life. The Sango Sands Campsite perched above thunderous waves, gulls wheeling above. Lunch was a pastrami-packed āNew Yorkerā toastie, messy and magnificent. Evening fell at the Oasis Bar, surf hammering applause below the cliffs.
š¼ļø Photo: Loch Eriboll panorama, dark and moodyš¼ļø Photo: Zipline rider crossing Ceannabeinne Beach, spray flyingš¼ļø Photo: Campervan at Sango Sands pitch with ocean backdrop
š£ Day 5 ā Durness ā Scourie
29 miles | Avg 9 mph | Top 56 mph
The Cape Wrath ferry sat idle, but the road west carried peace instead of disappointment.
Smoo Cave thundered with hidden waterfalls in its belly. Scourie welcomed you with turquoise calm: a Spar for supplies, a pub for a pint, and fish & chips steaming vinegar into cool evening air. At Scourie Campsite, the drone rose at dusk, catching fishing boats like scattered toys on a teal canvas.
š¼ļø Photo: Inside Smoo Cave, waterfall roaring into darknessš¼ļø Photo: Fish & chips in paper, vinegar soaking throughš¼ļø Photo: Drone shot of Scourie Bay at dusk, turquoise glow
šļø Day 6 ā Scourie ā Achmelvich
39 miles | Avg 15 mph | Top 59 mph
This was Scotland in cinematic mode.
The Kylesku Bridge arched across silver water, elegant as sculpture. At Drumbeg Viewpoint, lochs and islets spread like jewels. Then the beaches stole the stage.
Clachtoll Beach was white sand and turquoise clarity. But Achmelvich Bay won the crown. Fish & chips eaten by the water, gulls circling boldly, drone shots that could be mistaken for the Caribbean until the Highland wind reminded you otherwise.
š¼ļø Photo: Drone arc over Kylesku Bridgeš¼ļø Photo: Panoramic from Drumbeg, scattered lochs glintingš¼ļø Photo: Achmelvich Beach, sand glowing, campervans lined up
š§ļø Day 7 ā Achmelvich ā Ullapool
38 miles | Avg 14 mph | Top 63 mph
Rain set the tone, streaking across the windscreen as Ardvreck Castle loomed on Loch Assynt. The ruin looked ready to crumble further under centuries of drizzle, haunted in story and in sight.
By Ullapool, the harbour rattled with life: ferries docking, gulls shrieking, ropes groaning. The Seafood Shack delivered a haddock wrap so good it should be patented. Roast beef at The Arch Inn rounded off the storm with warmth. Vanilla rested at Broomfield Holiday Park, practically dipping her tyres into Loch Broom.
š¼ļø Photo: Ardvreck Castle in rain, drone mist above lochš¼ļø Photo: Seafood Shack haddock wrap mid-biteš¼ļø Photo: Evening lights on Ullapool harbour
š¢ Day 8 ā Ullapool Rest Day
0 miles | Avg 0 | All atmosphere
Vanilla stayed put, but Ullapool staged a show. Ferries sliced silver wakes across Loch Broom, gulls hovered and screamed, and by sunset the water turned to poured gold. The MV Loch Seaforth traced a luminous line into the dusk, drone footage worthy of cinema.
š¼ļø Photo: MV Loch Seaforth ferry glowing in sunsetš¼ļø Photo: Drone panorama over Loch Broom at golden hour
šļø Day 9 ā Ullapool ā Gairloch
56 miles | Avg 19 mph | Top 70 mph
Gruinard Bay gleamed outrageously blue, but offshore Anthrax Island lurked with its dark Cold War past. The contrast was stark ā paradise and shadow side by side.
On the road, you met a fellow VW driver, a survivor of the Kegworth crash. His story added a human layer to the day, reminding you that roads hold peopleās histories as much as landscapes. Evening in Gairloch Holiday Park was all calm: mountains beyond, pint in hand, water lapping quietly.
š¼ļø Photo: Gruinard Bay turquoise waters from aboveš¼ļø Photo: Portrait of VW driver met on roadsideš¼ļø Photo: Sunset over Gairloch Bay, campervans in silhouette
š Day 10 ā Gairloch ā Loch Maree (wild camp)
66 miles | Avg 17 mph | Top 55 mph
Loch Maree is legend and stillness woven together. Its wooded islands, holy to ancient monks, rise dark and mysterious from silver water. The Torridon peaks stand jagged and unblinking on the horizon.
The drone barely needed to move ā stillness was the subject. By nightfall, stars punched holes in the sky. Wild camping by the loch, Vanilla ticked softly, the heater keeping rhythm.
š¼ļø Photo: Drone panorama over Loch Maree, Slioch in distanceš¼ļø Photo: Night sky shot with campervan silhouette by loch
š£ļø Day 11 ā Loch Maree ā Fort Augustus
156 miles | Avg 20 mph | Top 68 mph
This was the kind of day that strings highlights like beads.
First, Eilean Donan Castle rose from its promontory like a film set. Then the Ballachulish Bridge arched over mist, steel against slate water.
By evening, Fort Augustus unfolded its canal locks step by step to Loch Ness. A pint at The Lock Inn, warm and buzzing, bookended the day perfectly. Nessie didnāt appear, but the myth hung in the air anyway.
š¼ļø Photo: Eilean Donan Castle in golden lightš¼ļø Photo: Drone shot of Ballachulish Bridge across waterš¼ļø Photo: Evening pint at The Lock Inn, canal lights glowing
šļø Day 12 ā Fort Augustus ā Lancaster
291 miles | Avg 24 mph | Top 78 mph
The Highlands staged their farewell in Glencoe ā peaks looming, mist curling, valleys opening wide. Rannoch Moorstretched a russet quilt, stark and endless. The Ballachulish Bridge whispered its goodbye a second time.
Southbound miles blurred, but the finish sparkled: the Eagles Head (Brit Stops) in Over Kellet. Anneās welcome was warm, the top-car-park pitch quiet, and the chicken & leek pie a masterpiece. Vanilla sighed in relief as much as you did.
š The Eagles Head
š¼ļø Photo: Drone shot of Glencoe valley, mist rolling downš¼ļø Photo: Pie and pint at Eagles Head tableš¼ļø Photo: Campervan parked under pub lights, top car park
š Day 13 ā Lancaster ā Stafford
147 miles | Avg 38 mph | Top 77 mph
The motorway stretched smooth and familiar, a final coffee keeping eyelids open. Fields turned from foreign to home, hedgerows recognisable, and at last the driveway appeared. Vanilla purred to a halt like a champion at the finish line.
The NC500 wasnāt just complete ā it was lived. A loop closed, a legend absorbed, and a thousand moments banked in memory.
š¼ļø Photo: Final odometer reading, 1,480 miles loggedš¼ļø Photo: Vanilla back in Stafford driveway, bug-splattered but proud
š Totals
1,480 miles driven
12 driving days + 1 rest day
š Top speed: 81.4 mph
š¢ Slowest day: Scourie, 9 mph average
š Longest haul: Day 1, 459.5 miles
š„ Now youāve got your full illustrated blog scaffold: story, stats, stops with what3words, and photo slots marked with captions.
Do you want me to also make you a matching interactive map file (KML/Google Maps) with all these stops pinned, so readers can follow the whole loop visually?
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